BACH: "BADINERIE." MOZART: FLUTE CONCERTO NO. 1. QUANTZ: FLUTE CONCERTO. Syrinx, pan-flute. Armin Jordon conducts the Lausanne Chamber Orchestra (Erato NUM 75187). Mozart always said he hated the flute. One wonders, then, how he would react to his lilting G-major Concerto played on the breathy pan-flute. This may be a gimmick record but it is a good one. The Romanian musician Syrinx (nee Simion Stanciu) is a dazzling--and dead-serious--performer. He hits every note and trill. But more important , he caresses the music, creating a legitimate interpretation rather than a show-off rendition. Once you get used to the blowing-into-a-Coke-bottle sound, it's easy to become infatuated. The warm recording and Jordan's crisp accompaniment help, too.