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Hedonist's Dinner

September 22, 1985

Re the article on Chicago by Beverly Beyer and Ed Rabey (Aug. 11): I feel that any visitors to Chicago should include a dinner at Le Francais restaurant, 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling (a northwest suburb), on their itinerary. It's about a 45-minute drive from downtown Chicago, but for what is probably the best food in the country, it's worth it. This restaurant is the answer to a hedonist's dreams. In terms of food and service, I think it towers over such local establishments as L'Ermitage, Bernard's, La Toque, Rex, L'Orangerie, Ma Maison, Max au Triangle, Spago, Michael's, etc. It's expensive; figure at least $85 a person (including appetizers, entree, dessert and wine). . . . Food as a sensuous celebration of life.

DAN O'NEILL

Los Angeles

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