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FIRST IMPRESSIONS

A Little Something for Everybody

January 24, 1986|RUTH REICHL

Nicky Blair's (8730 Sunset Blvd., (213) 659-0929) looks like an East Coast fantasy of Hollywood. The men all walk from table to table calling each other "sweetheart." Meanwhile the women, dressed to the teeth, go to the powder room in pairs to gossip. Nobody's in a hurry, so diners snuggle into the comfy chairs and commodious booths, staring about them while polished waiters hover.

If Spago had mated with Mama Leone, they might have created this menu. How else can you explain pork tenderloin with raspberries on the same menu as sausage and peppers? Mozzarella marinara sharing the page with goat cheese wrapped in radicchio ? There's a little something for everybody--and there is sure to be a lot of it. This is not a restaurant for people on a diet: order a salad, and you'll have a hard time finding the greens beneath the cheese.

The restaurant has been open only a week, but it looks like Hollywood is happy to see Nicky Blair back in town. At the moment it's hard to tell where the food is going, but it is easy to see that the wine list is one of the fairest in town.

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