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Cuisine at Boathouse Isn't All Smooth Sailing

DAVID NELSON ON RESTAURANTS

April 17, 1986|DAVID NELSON

Among other recently available fish were salmon, topped with hollandaise and almonds; catfish in a creamed mustard sauce; ahi and monkfish, both pan-broiled in garlic butter; soupfin shark in caper sauce, and yellowtail, first marinated in teriyaki sauce and then char-broiled.

The waiters at the Pacific Beach Boathouse, like their brothers in Encinitas, make a great show of tossing canned black olives and boxed croutons into the iceberg lettuce salad. This dull course is included in the price of the meal, but there are other ways to start, among them a plate of hot and spicy shrimp, and a serving of mushroom caps filled with a rather gooey crab stuffing. The onion soup can be skipped without regret; this salty creation tasted mostly of commercial soup stock base. The scampi turnover could be quite good if the kitchen were less parsimonious with the shrimp, because the sauce has a nice, refreshing flavor. A portion sampled one evening consisted mostly of pastry, however, and was not at all worth the $5.95 price tag.

A tray of pastries is brought at the end of the meal. These sweets are catered by Piret's and are generally reliable.

THE BOATHOUSE

4325 Ocean Blvd., San Diego

Reservations suggested, 274-3474

Dinner served nightly.

Credit cards accepted.

Dinner for two, with a glass of house wine each, tax and tip, $35 to $70.

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