GUANAJUATO, Mexico — No matter where you are in Mexico (during the fall), an absolute must is to get to Guanajuato to see the Entremeses Cervantinos. --Terry's Guide to Mexico. --A church bell peals in the darkness, quieting the crowd. Across the worn paving stones of the Plazuela de San Roque a lamplighter with a flaming torch runs to set the street lights afire.
By the flickering firelight a 16th-Century Spanish town emerges--strutting soldiers in silver helmets, gallants with plumes in their hats, silk-stockinged caballeros arrayed in peacock finery with their somber senoras, tradesmen and workmen. There's a street vendor crying his wares, children with their nanas, a barefoot girl leading a train of heavy-laden burros, two saber-wielding cavalrymen on horseback, beggars and monks and servants, a teeming street.
Quite suddenly the street is frozen. Nothing moves. A blue spotlight catches a tall, sorrowful figure, thin as a pencil. He moves among the motionless townspeople, his creations. He is the poet, Miguel de Cervantes. . . .
Thus begins the "Entremeses Cervantinos" (The Interludes of Cervantes). These are the collection of short plays the Spanish master published in 1615, designed to be performed as curtain raisers and at fiestas and banquets. They are farces and comedies mostly, but with Cervantes' great gift for creating social reality as absurdity, but an absurdity of positive values; a collection of braggarts and fops and whores and swindlers playing a kind of hide-and-seek with truth, essentially Quixotes all.
In 1952, under auspices of the University of Guanajuato, several of the entremeses were woven into an evening of theater to be performed on the streets as a tribute to Cervantes. They were so successful that they have been repeated every year, and eventually the distinguished Guanajuato fall festival of the arts (Temporada Cultural de Otono) was built around them.
The major roles of the entremeses , triple cast, are performed (and brilliantly) by the people of Guanajuato, merchants and lawyers and workmen and housewives and the like, augmented in the huge casts by students from the university.
Their stage is the rough paving of the plaza, their backdrop the towering, 300-year-old Church of San Roque, their sets the residences that face the square with their flower-bedecked balconies. Residents of these homes put on monk's robes or 16th-Century costumes to leave their houses on the nights of the entremeses .
Audiences arrive early for the 9 p.m. performances to find seats on the makeshift bleachers or on stoops and doorsteps. Performances are, of course, in Spanish, but language is no barrier.
For the first time in more than three decades there was the possibility of no entremeses last fall. When the devastating earthquakes hit Mexico City in September, Guanajuato canceled its festival. However, when the dust settled there was a change of mind; the festival was only postponed from October to November.
Alicia Alonzo brought her National Ballet of Cuba to perform in the exquisite Teatro Juarez, the most beautiful theater in Mexico, perhaps in the Western world. The National Symphony of Mexico, the National Compania de Danza, the exciting young Ballet de Espacio (Ballet of Space) from Mexico City, various soloists, popular artists and musical groups from Russia, Belgium, Britain and Japan performed.
There were band concerts, dances, plays at the Teatro Principal, guitar concerts at the house where Diego Rivera was born, now a museum, various other entertainment, mostly on weekends.
In depressed Mexico with tourism far below normal, attendance was not all it has been, but a Friday night on the Jardin, Guanajuato's central square, simply bursts with life, rich and colorful. (Probably the postponement held down attendance; Guanajuato is a tropical city but more than a mile high, and even though the days are hot, November nights can be very cold.)
Whatever companies appear in Teatro Juarez, they are hard put to outshine the theater. What a magnificent structure this is, a French opera house with Moorish overtones in an architecture that has been described as "delirious," but which somehow works, somehow is breathtakingly beautiful.
With its broad steps, its Doric columns and bronze rooftop statues, the theater faces the Jardin and is a gathering place for daytime activities, political speeches, concerts on the steps, impromptu entertainment. Unfortunately, the theater is dark much of the year, but there are daily tours.
Guanajuato is a fascinating city at any time, not only for its entremeses . Crawling up two mountainsides above a central gorge (once a roaring river, now a major highway through the city, mostly underground), it was once the richest city in all Mexico, its mines pouring out a fabulous river of gold and silver, mostly shipped to Spain.