Today is just about the only day that you can't walk into the Beverly Hills Breakfast Club, 9671 Wilshire Blvd., (213) 271-8903, and have something really satisfying to eat. It's closed for the Fourth, which seems appropriate, given its true-blue American menu.
BHBC is yet another homage to the diner. But this one is different: it's not kitsch, and it's not kiddish. It seems proud of its roots, and when you look up at the display of Campbell soup cans and Cracker Jack and Quaker Oats boxes you are suddenly struck by the strength of the designs. These quintessentially American objects are a pleasure to look at.