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Burgundy: It's Not Just the Wines

Footloose in Beaune

August 03, 1986|BEVERLY BEYER and ED RABEY | Beyer and Rabey are Los Angeles travel writers.

Going first-class: Hotel de la Poste (Blvd. Clemenceau; $95) is an old coaching stop that has set standards for accommodations and kitchen in Beaune since 1904 under the Chevillot family. Country elegance from door to roof, everything kept scrupulously up-to-date with a great deal of finesse, lovely dining room that first introduced us to the magic of Burgundian food. Many stars for the Poste.

Le Cep (27 Rue Maufoux; $60-$93) began life as a residence in the 17th Century, now so regally furnished it catches your breath. Each of its 21 rooms in Louis XV, XVI or Directoire antiques and fabrics, 18th-Century wood carvings and rich works of art on the walls, choose between a 17th-Century vaulted cellar or small courtyard for your breakfast, the only meal served. It stays 90% booked with the likes of NATO commanders, so reserve early.

On your own: Begin your rounds, \o7 tastevin\f7 in hand, at Marche aux Vins near tourist office on Market Square and \o7 degustez raisonnablement\f7 . For more wine history and knowledge, visit the chateau, 12th-Century presses and museum in the vineyards of Clos Vougeot just north of town. Then tour the magnificent Les Hospices de Beaune, the Romanesque Church of Notre Dame and devote ample time to savoring the symphony of 16th-to-18th-Century houses fronting Place Carnot, a perfect jewel.

For more information contact the French Government Tourist Office at 9401 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 840, Beverly Hills 90212; (213) 271-6665. Ask for a map of northeast France with pictures and information on its towns, a list of hotels and the Beaune Package.

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