Luneburg Deli-Cafe, 18041 Chatsworth St., Granada Hills, (818) 368-9005. Open Monday-Friday, 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturday 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m. MasterCard and Visa accepted. Lunch for two, $5-$10.
We are very close to the edge of the world here, ladies and gentlemen: the northern rim of the San Fernando Valley, in the very shadow of the Santa Susana Mountains. Just about a block from this spot, there is a restaurant calling itself "Country Kitchen Smorgasbord and Mongolian Barbecue." Very close to the edge of the world.
And yet right here, right next to a shopping mall post office, is a quiet, old-fashioned, rather formal North German delicatessen. Not altogether formal, to be sure--not with those well-dressed ladies intently scraping off their Lotto cards at the next table.
But the Luneburg Deli-Cafe really is a sort of dignified outpost of Old World tradition, breathing certainty about what food ought to be like. As a deli, it sells sausages, raspberry syrup, roggenschrot rye bread and a surprising variety of non-German items as well.