Los Angeles may not be known as a late-night city, but it does have its share of restaurants--from the trendy to the fairly tacky--that cater to both the after-theater and early-morning munchie crowds. All prices exclude drinks.
BISTANGO (133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles (213) 652-7788). Bistango is fun, the service kind, and the rooms spacious. The food's not bad either. For the uninitiated, the gently grilled baby salmon with sun-dried tomatoes is a superior introduction to California cuisine. The ratatouille pizza is also superb--thin crusted, with jolts of garlic and riotously colored yellow, green and red peppers. Smoked chicken calzone, big as a football, stuffed full of leeks, cheese, cilantro and lots of fragrant meat, is also a treat. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Pizza and dessert served until 1 a.m. All major credit cards. Valet parking. Dinner for two: $30-$70.
DAN TANA'S (9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood (213) 275-9444). This haven for movie people is an old-fashioned sort of place: unpretentious, professional, incredibly comforting with a cozy bar, dimly lit interior, red-checked tablecloths and bottles of straw-covered Chianti dangling from the ceiling. The Italian food is substantial, familiar and fine. It basically comes in two varieties: red and white. The red food consists of dishes like squishy spaghetti with meat balls. There is also good red meat, like a tasty, chewy steak. But white food, such as the sauteed whitefish, is what the restaurant is most famous for. Desserts-- tortoni , spumoni and flan --are also quite white. Open for dinner nightly: Mon.-Sat. until 1 a.m., Sun. until 12:30 a.m. Full bar. Major credit cards. Dinner for two: $30-$70.