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The Vegetarian

A Summer Missing Favorite Cafe

July 02, 1987|DIANA SHAW | Shaw is free-lance writer in Los Angeles.

My summer in Boston has only just started, and I miss Angeli Caffe already.

Angeli on Melrose Avenue was where I went to find solace in calzone , where I went to celebrate over Ricotta al Forno and pizza madrona . There is no place like it here, but there is "Cucina Fresca," the cookbook written by Angeli owner/chef Evan Kleiman and colleague Viana La Place. These two recipes are adapted from the book.


(Baked Ricotta)


2 (15-ounce) containers firm, whole-milk ricotta

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Dried thyme

Freshly ground black pepper

Generously butter 8-inch springform pan. Combine ricotta, eggs and Parmesan in medium bowl and stir until well blended. Season to taste with thyme and black pepper.

Pour mixture into prepared pan and bake at 350 degrees 1 hour 15 minutes or until top is golden-brown and firm to touch.

Cool at room temperature. Unmold onto serving plate. Serve with fresh bread and black olives or fruit, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.


1 small onion, chopped

Olive oil

2 cups canned Italian tomatoes with juice, coarsely chopped

Salt, freshly ground pepper

8 large potatoes, boiled and peeled

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup diced mozzarella cheese

3/4 cup diced provolone cheese

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley


Saute onion in olive oil until translucent. Add tomatoes and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat until tomato sauce is thick and dry.

Mash potatoes until smooth. Combine potatoes with eggs, mozzarella, provolone, Parmesan and parsley. Mix well.

Generously butter 9x2 1/2-inch springform pan. Spread 1/3 of potato mixture evenly on bottom of pan. Cover with half of tomato sauce. Smooth on another 1/3 of potato mixture, cover with rest of sauce, then top with remaining potato mixture.

Drizzle top with olive oil and bake at 350 degrees 1 1/4 hours or until top is crusty and brown.

Cool at room temperature. Refrigerate several hours or overnight. Serve cold. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

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