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Napa Valley Barrel Tasting Previews : 1986 Chardonnays, Cabernets Match '83 and '84 Harvests

August 06, 1987|NATHAN CHROMAN | Chroman is a free-lance wine writer and author who also practices law in Beverly Hills

The most underrated and overlooked Cabernet in recent years is Franciscan, but the '85 stands to do well with yet-unyielding, intense cherry flavor and slight wood tones at the finish. Martin with light cherry tones will be agreeable early, whereas Frog's Leap lacks fruit and depth, and Cain, a big wine of substance with an earthy taste, may require a decade's aging. Silky smoothness marked Inglenook with flavors not yet developed but plenty of fruit underneath, coupled with tannin for future development.

Lean, concentrated, possessed of a fine future and somewhat big in an excellent harmonious style is Groth, whereas Monticello, also showing future promise, presented a cherry nose and flavor in a rich, forward, big-textured style. Nearly as good is St. Clement with a slightly lighter structure, good cherry flavors and ample tannin for cellaring. Girard seems to lack the depth and good massive fruit of the others.

Evaluating young Cabernets is a lot like engaging in the hazards of predicting the future. Tasting the '85s and the '86s together makes it easier, providing a taste experiment from which wine lovers will surely find benefit and pleasure. The stylistic differences imposed by vintage may ultimately be a question of personal taste, thus providing consumers with a barrel-full of solid options.

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