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Food From Cold Climates

November 22, 1987| Compiled by David Pecchia

It's almost winter, the perfect time to start thinking of the sort of hearty, heavy food served in Central Europe. KNOLL'S BLACK FOREST INN (2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (213) 395-2212). This 25-year-old establishment provides nicely prepared and presented traditional German food, while you bask in country-club comfort surroundings. Wiener schnitzel, Rinderroulad, Sauerbraten and Bratwurst come in various permutations, such as Schnitzel a la Holstein , which is interpreted here as veal cutlet with fried egg, anchovies, capers, caviar and lox. There are lighter dishes, too, for those with tiny stomachs. Open for lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sun. Full bar. Valet parking. All major credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$50. LUNEBURG DELI-CAFE (18041 Chatsworth St., Granada Hills, (818) 368-9005). Located at the northern edge of the San Fernando Valley, the Luneburg Deli-Cafe is really a dignified outpost of Old World tradition. Sit in peace at one of a dozen tables and have a Maerzen-Bier and a Black Forest ham sandwich. Or perhaps a quiche, or hot sausage lunch. With your sausages, you can get oniony hot potato salad, red cabbage or even a soup. Open Mon.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m. MC, V. Lunch for two, food only, $5-$10. MATUSZEKS (7513 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 874-0106). The decor is high-tech Czech. Plates come heavy with chunks of meat of one sort or another, plus dumplings or potatoes, all of it swimming in a gravy sea. Try Kure na paprice , which is a terra cotta-colored arrangement of boned breast of chicken paprika and sliced white flour dumplings. For the encore, Czech out the apple strudel that the slender Mrs. Matuszek makes for dessert: It's chock full of raisins and a taste of orange peel. Open for dinner only Mon.-Sat. Beer and wine. Parking in rear. No credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$30. MIGNON EUROPEAN RESTAURANT (1253 N. Vine St., Los Angeles, (213) 461-4192). Set in the heart of Hollywood, this Romanian restaurant is spotlessly clean and serves wonderful food. The stuffed cabbage is very good. When you order the osso buco , you'll be the recipient of a veal shank that is probably bigger and better than any you've ever seen. Desserts include Mignon crepes, which are filled with Romanian sour cherries. Open Tue.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sun. 12 p.m.-1 a.m. Closed Monday. MC, V. Mall parking. Banquet facilities available. Beer and wine. Dancing on weekends. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$35. MONIQUE (618 S. Shoppers Lane, Covina, (818) 332-4902). Newcomers might want to invest in a special for two called the Hungarian potpourri, for under $25. You begin with a little crock of homemade Liptauer cheese. Langos , a Hungarian fried bread dripping in a peppery oil, follows. Debreceni kolbasz are next: three giant, home-smoked, piquant sausages with the scent of fresh, sweet paprika that is irresistible. Generally, you should have plenty to take home to enjoy at a later time. Open for lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. Beer and wine. All major credit cards. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$35. VIOLET'S RESTAURANT (1712 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (213) 255-4562). The dining room of this Russian restaurant, with its dark, shadowy ambiance, looks like it was borrowed from the set of "Anastasia." When you get comfortable, begin with a generous heap of caviar, accompanied by the usual black bread, crisp rounds of toast, butter, chopped onion and boiled egg. You may want to forgo the salad and try a wonderful borscht filled with chunked beef and cabbage; it will ready the palate for any of the fine entrees. Homemade dessert standouts include baklava . Open for dinner only, Wed.-Sun. Beer and wine. Street parking. All major credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$40.

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