It's almost winter, the perfect time to start thinking of the sort of hearty, heavy food served in Central Europe. KNOLL'S BLACK FOREST INN (2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (213) 395-2212). This 25-year-old establishment provides nicely prepared and presented traditional German food, while you bask in country-club comfort surroundings. Wiener schnitzel, Rinderroulad, Sauerbraten and Bratwurst come in various permutations, such as Schnitzel a la Holstein , which is interpreted here as veal cutlet with fried egg, anchovies, capers, caviar and lox. There are lighter dishes, too, for those with tiny stomachs. Open for lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sun. Full bar. Valet parking. All major credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$50. LUNEBURG DELI-CAFE (18041 Chatsworth St., Granada Hills, (818) 368-9005). Located at the northern edge of the San Fernando Valley, the Luneburg Deli-Cafe is really a dignified outpost of Old World tradition. Sit in peace at one of a dozen tables and have a Maerzen-Bier and a Black Forest ham sandwich. Or perhaps a quiche, or hot sausage lunch. With your sausages, you can get oniony hot potato salad, red cabbage or even a soup. Open Mon.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m. MC, V. Lunch for two, food only, $5-$10. MATUSZEKS (7513 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 874-0106). The decor is high-tech Czech. Plates come heavy with chunks of meat of one sort or another, plus dumplings or potatoes, all of it swimming in a gravy sea. Try Kure na paprice , which is a terra cotta-colored arrangement of boned breast of chicken paprika and sliced white flour dumplings. For the encore, Czech out the apple strudel that the slender Mrs. Matuszek makes for dessert: It's chock full of raisins and a taste of orange peel. Open for dinner only Mon.-Sat. Beer and wine. Parking in rear. No credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$30. MIGNON EUROPEAN RESTAURANT (1253 N. Vine St., Los Angeles, (213) 461-4192). Set in the heart of Hollywood, this Romanian restaurant is spotlessly clean and serves wonderful food. The stuffed cabbage is very good. When you order the osso buco , you'll be the recipient of a veal shank that is probably bigger and better than any you've ever seen. Desserts include Mignon crepes, which are filled with Romanian sour cherries. Open Tue.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sun. 12 p.m.-1 a.m. Closed Monday. MC, V. Mall parking. Banquet facilities available. Beer and wine. Dancing on weekends. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$35. MONIQUE (618 S. Shoppers Lane, Covina, (818) 332-4902). Newcomers might want to invest in a special for two called the Hungarian potpourri, for under $25. You begin with a little crock of homemade Liptauer cheese. Langos , a Hungarian fried bread dripping in a peppery oil, follows. Debreceni kolbasz are next: three giant, home-smoked, piquant sausages with the scent of fresh, sweet paprika that is irresistible. Generally, you should have plenty to take home to enjoy at a later time. Open for lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. Beer and wine. All major credit cards. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$35. VIOLET'S RESTAURANT (1712 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (213) 255-4562). The dining room of this Russian restaurant, with its dark, shadowy ambiance, looks like it was borrowed from the set of "Anastasia." When you get comfortable, begin with a generous heap of caviar, accompanied by the usual black bread, crisp rounds of toast, butter, chopped onion and boiled egg. You may want to forgo the salad and try a wonderful borscht filled with chunked beef and cabbage; it will ready the palate for any of the fine entrees. Homemade dessert standouts include baklava . Open for dinner only, Wed.-Sun. Beer and wine. Street parking. All major credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$40.