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IN THE KITCHEN : No Ordinary English Muffin

February 07, 1988|RUTH REICHL

DO YOU USE sweet butter on your bread?

Do you hover over the toaster in the morning, watching your toast until it turns the perfect color?

Do you think it matters if the butter is warm or cold before you spread it on the toast?

Do you hate toast topped with too much (or too little) butter?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, you will probably want to know that the best English muffins in the world are made in Kansas City.

Wolferman's English Muffins bear about the same relationship to ordinary English muffins as balloons do to hockey pucks. These are great big generous things, far too large to squeeze into a conventional toaster. Split with a fork (English muffins don't taste the same when cut with a knife), they are still bigger than an entire muffin of the supermarket sort.

When toasted, these mild-mannered muffins turn into textural delights. Crisp on top, they crunch wickedly beneath the teeth. And yet just below the crackly layer is a pillowy softness that invites the butter to sink in. They have a fine, crisp flavor like fresh-baked bread, with just the faintest hint of cornmeal at the end.

There is a reason why Wolferman's are the toast of the town; the family has been making muffins since 1888. Recently they began adding wild new varieties to the line--Cheddar cheese, blueberry or apple-raisin (to name just a few of the newfangled flavors). Purists, of course, will stick to good old Original English Muffins.

Wolferman's English Muffins come 4 dozen to a case for $18 (plus $3.90 for postage), or half a case for $11 (plus $2.90 postage). To order call (800) 255-0169.

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