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Subtly Spring : The New Makeup Interpreted by the Experts for L.A.'s Subdued Mood

March 13, 1988|PADDY CALISTRO

WEST COAST women may tend to wear their hair longer and their skirts shorter than their East Coast counterparts, but when it comes to makeup, most Southern Californians avoid extremes.

Even in Los Angeles, the newest warm-weather looks are not dependent on a suntan. According to high-fashion makeup experts, the desirable complexion is natural-looking but glistened with opalescent powder and warmed with a very gentle pink or pale coral blusher.

For the first time in several years, colors for eyes and lips are in balance; neither overpowers the other. The California version of this balancing act calls for muted colors. A New York woman reaches for black mascara; an L.A. woman chooses brown or gray. A Parisian might wear one of the brightest new hot pink lipsticks--Chanel's Laser Pink--but the choice here is Chanel's Soleil Mirage, a pale pink enhancement of natural color. Christian Dior's Clematis, a vibrant shade of rose, is softened with Dior's Subdued Light lip gloss. Terry, international makeup artist for Yves Saint Laurent's YSL Beaute line, suggests that a touch of pressed powder worn over No. 62 Deep Coral will temper its intensity to achieve the West Coast look.

Light strokes of subtle color create toned-down, provocative eyes, says Lori Hegedus, Shiseido L.A. training director. Using colors developed by the firm's international image creator, Serge Lutens, Hegedus smoothes together blue, purple, pewter and gold until just a hint of tint remains.

For the record:
Los Angeles Times Sunday April 3, 1988 Home Edition Los Angeles Times Magazine Page 4B Times Magazine Desk 1 inches; 27 words Type of Material: Correction
In the March 13 Looks feature, "Subtly Spring," by Paddy Calistro, sketches by Guy Lento for Chanel and by Serge Lutens for Shiseido were inadvertently transposed. We regret any confusion.

Christian Dior Artistic Director Tyen says his color inspirations "came from gentle flowers picked at sunrise from Monet's gardens--soft petal shades chosen to enhance a woman's beauty." Tyen stripes the eye in vivid shades of iris and rose, but Marc Lieberman, Christian Dior West Coast makeup artist, translates the look into soft, misty shades of pink that are blended until they almost fade away.

Tony Michaels, Lancome vice president and the creative mind behind the company's U.S. color presentation, lines the eyes with indigo, and colors the lids in pinks and blues. In Lancome ads, model Isabella Rossellini's makeup is defined and strong. The California version is paler, yet it communicates the same colorful message.

On these pages, five top cosmetics firms present original sketches--illustrating their color concepts for spring and summer--accompanied by interpretations of the looks by their own makeup artists, all with California women in mind.

Photographed by Stephen Clark; hair by Tony Cappella/Cloutier and Michael Weeks/Cloutier; model: Milla Jovovich/Prima.

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