Judith Morgan in "Simple Dining in the Bistros, Brasseries of Paris" (June 19) says she doesn't go to three-star restaurants. What she doesn't say is that L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, her example of cheap eating, was for many years a one-star restaurant.
I don't know its current status, but its aligot, that wonderful garlicky mashed potato dish, was famous and often written about, as was the restaurant. I assume it is still very well-known. Gustafson, the author she quotes, didn't have to do much detective work to find such an example of good Parisian food.