Spago, 1114 Horn Ave., West Hollywood. (213) 652-4025. Style: House of paparazzi and pizza. Setting: High voltage. Recommended dishes: Duck sausage pizza; Andrea's salad; pasta salad with lobster. Cost per person: $20-$40.
At one time or another, all of them have been called Spago clones. California Pizza Kitchen, Topanga Plaza, 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills; (818) 884-8858, several other locations. Style: The People's Spago. Setting: Hospital white. Recommended dishes: Barbecued chicken pizza; vegetarian pizza; mixed-leaf salad in Caesar dressing. Cost per person: $10-$15.
Caioti, 2100 Laurel Canyon Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 650-2988. \o7 Style: \f7 Spago in the canyon. \o7 Setting: \f7 '60s backwoods bar. \o7 Recommended dishes: \f7 Roasted garlic pizza; prosciutto and goat cheese pizza; smoked chicken salad. \o7 Cost per person:\f7 $10-$25.
The Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 274-8303. \o7 Style: \f7 Spago gets uppity. \o7 Setting: \f7 Designer eclectic. \o7 Recommended dishes: \f7 Crab salad; molasses bread; spinach linguine with fresh tomato. \o7 Cost per person:\f7 $20-$40.
Parkway Grill, 510 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena. (818) 795-1001. \o7 Style: \f7 Spago in the 'burbs. \o7 Setting: \f7 Bricks and boards. \o7 Recommended dishes: \f7 Pizza with lamb sausage; grilled chicken; s'mores. \o7 Cost per person:\f7 $15-$40.
Shane Hidden on the Glen, 2932 Beverly Glen Circle, Los Angeles. (213) 470-6223. \o7 Style: \f7 Neighborhood Spago for celebs who'd rather not be recognized. \o7 Setting: \f7 Alice in Southwesternland. \o7 Recommended dishes: \f7 Santa Fe chicken soup; pizza with lamb sausage; grilled chicken. \o7 Cost per person:\f7 $12-$25.