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Fashion : A SPECIAL REPORT: SPRING INTO FALL : 60s / 90s: Fall Styles Recall The Age of Aquarius

May 02, 1990|MARY ROURKE | TIMES FASHION EDITOR

If you think fashion is just supposed to be fun, fall '90 could be the party you've been waiting for. Clothes haven't been such a hoot since Jackie O lived in the White House and the peppermint twist was the only dance in town. Some of the grandest names in the business are flirting with this giddy flame.

In Paris, Christian Lacroix has regaled the '90s rich hippie with cashmere ponchos, poor boy sweaters and op-art tent dresses that collide with op-art tights.

Claude Montana has the '90s answer to Beatlemania in his Sergeant Pepper pantsuits decorated with fine gold chain. Sixties-inspired capes, halter dresses and short, tent-shaped coats by Montana come in Andy Warhol shades of red, yellow and violet.

In Italy, Gianni Versace is cutting shapes last seen at the garden party in Federico Fellini's "Juliette of the Spirits." Fitted bodices expand into bell skirts; shaped necklines play against shaped hemlines. And legs are veiled in ivory hose.

New Yorkers Charlotte Neuville, Adrienne Vittadini and Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis are bringing back maxi coats with miniskirts, sleeveless skimmer dresses to wear with elbow-length gloves and the color white as a replacement for black.

Londoners have reinvented hot pants--the shortest of the shorts--and fake-fur chubs--those cropped jackets to wear day or night. Veteran fashioneer Vivienne Westwood has the look down pat. Newcomer Rifat Ozbek goes '60s for the first time, with his crushed-velvet bell bottoms and midriff-baring tops.

Los Angeles designer Melinda Besnoin for Melivier shows '60s-chic dresses for fall. They havejewel necklines and narrow sleeves, and go best with sturdy pumps. Tokyo's Norihisa Ota, a trend-setter there, is styling James Bond girl clothes inspired by '60s ski wear. The preferred color is Pucci pink.

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