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Fashion : A SPECIAL REPORT: SPRING INTO FALL : Choice Cuts : Hair With a History : Women: Leading stylists see '60s hairdos making a comeback in the 1990s. 'Sleek' is the word for the simple and dramatically shaped coifs.

May 02, 1990|PADDY CALISTRO

Remember former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy's brunette bubble at the inaugural ball, or actress Barbara Feldon's deep brown bob in the '60s sitcom, "Get Smart"?

Those are two of the looks that leading stylists see as the new do's for 1990s. Dark, sleek, simply but dramatically shaped.

When fall fashions were previewed from Milan to Tokyo this spring, many of the models wore very full bangs or none at all (no wimpy in-between fringes) and French twists that were either aristocratically sleek or sex kitten disheveled.

Length was not an issue. Runway hair fell to the shoulders (anything longer was swept up in a twist), to the chin with an even shorter back, or to just above the ears with distinct geometric lines--the way Rudi Gernreich models wore theirs in the mid-'60s. The common denominator was a high, obviously back-combed, crown.

Cristophe of Beverly Hills says he has been cutting '60s looks for a few months "only on the trendiest clients right now, but the look will be very big for fall."

Cristina Ferrare and actress Sarah Douglas are wearing variations he gave them. Ferrare's has a short back with long sides, Douglas' is a Kennedy-esque flip. "The key is the high crown," Cristophe says.

Haircutter Eusebio Aynaga says '60s looks will be big this fall at the Doyle Wilson salon on Melrose too. "'We're cutting very geometric looks," he says. "The shape is so precise that the hair almost looks like it's a wig."

Indeed, wigs are an obvious way to effect a '60s look without making a commitment. Karl Lagerfeld used them, in black or platinum blond, to accessorize his fall '90 collection. Backup singers donned identical dark wigs with bangs to wear on Rod Stewart's "This Old Heart of Mine" video.

Model Paulina Porizkova often wears one over her own long blond hair when she wants a chin-length bob. Joseph Kendall of the Joseph Martin salon in Beverly Hills says half-wigs, known as postiches, worn with headbands are a quick, very popular and very '60s way to try out the style.

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