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On the Grill


Grilling as we know it goes back to Henry Ford.

In the beginning, which was the early '30s, there was already a thing called the camping grill: a gizmo made of sheet metal you could carry to your campsite and unfold when you were ready to cook.

It happened that charcoal briquettes had just been invented by the Ford Motor Co. as a way to use up hardwood left over from building folding tops for its Model Ts and Model As. Ford originally saw them as an industrial fuel, but he also shrewdly contracted with a company in Eden, New York, to build camping grills stamped with the Ford name. You got an introductory sack or two of briquettes with your grill.

The next stage didn't come until after World War II, when the suburban back yard came into its own, above all in Southern California. It was here in patio-land that the larger, heavier outdoor style barbecue originated, at first often made out of a war surplus oil drum.

In 1951 the Big Boy Co. of Burbank invented the wheeled wagon-style grill. Sears, Roebuck stocked it, and the back yard barbecue phenomenon spread around the country. Soon models with shelves, hoods and all--not far from styles we have today--were available. Gas and electric grill models were introduced in the late 50s.

Grill styles may not have changed much since then, but the wide selection of brands and sizes is mind-boggling. Budget and need, frequency of use will likely affect your decision. Inexpensive, portable grills have limited capacity and function but they're useful for picnics, boats and tailgating. Larger more elaborate grills with all the bells and whistles are a bigger decision.

In shopping for any type of grill, look for safety features such as tip-proof bases or carts, strong leg posts and stay-cool handles. Shake up those grill wagons in the stores--you'll be surprised how wobbly some of them are. A higher-domed hood is helpful for taller food items. When closed, the hood should hardly touch the grate area so precious grilling space isn't lost.

Grates should be sturdy and adjustable for better heat control. The ideal grate finish is cast iron because of energy-saving heat retention. It also puts those distinctive restaurant-style grill marks on the food. The drawback is that cast iron requires care before and after use to guard against rusting.

Newer equipment models offer some of these innovative features: Bottom ash catchers for neat clean-up. Porcelainized cast iron grids to alleviate rusting. Range-style side burners for outdoor sauce heating, or for outdoor frying so that odors don't linger indoors. Heavy duty rotisseries for turkey roasting. The ability to smoke food as well as to cook it. Built-in trays for smoke chips so they don't clog up gas lines. Warming bread trays or baskets.

For crowd party givers, there are monster-size barbecue grills, such as Weber's huge Ranch Kettle. You could fit about 20 Cornish hens and about ten potatoes in its 1,104 inches of cooking space.

Today charcoal and gas are still the favorite ways of grilling. Charcoal loyalists unconvinced about the flavor quality derived from gas or electric grilling might check out two upscale charcoal grills: the brand new Kingsford Pro Charcoal Grill from Clorox Co. and the high-tech styled Char-Broil from W.C. Bradley Enterprises, Inc. Both units offer features that the average charcoal grill lack.

Grills fueled by gas (either propane or natural) are neat and convenient, and handy for those who don't have time to build fires. If price is no object, you might be interested in these two upscale models. From the land of "barbie" parties comes the Turbo Australian Gas Grill with lava rock, imported by Stuart McDonald of Barbeques Galore from Down Under.

Then there's the Weber Genesis Series with flavorizer bars. Weber keeps adding to the series and every year, they come up with a new accessory. Top of the line is Genesis 5. A variation of the Genesis is the Perma-Mount Gas Barbecue, a stationary gas grill that replaces old grills attached to a natural gas source.

The camping grill lives on. The Weber Smokey Joe Tuck-N-Carry charcoal grill and the indoor/outdoor Iwatani Cassette Feu Gas Hibachi, which uses small butane cylinders, are both portable. And don't forget that the hibachi is wonderful for cooking at the table; it's like being in a Korean barbecue restaurant. Our testings found that all of these grills performed to our satisfaction. Here's a summary of their features. Judge for yourself.


Kingsford Pro Charcoal Grill $199

A black kettle grill on a metal rolling cart, with bottom rack and redwood shelves on either end. Cooking area: 400 square inches.

Advantages: Oval cooking area. High-domed hood accommodates large pieces of meat. Top and bottom air vents. Easy-cleaning porcelainized grate. Middle section of grid is hinged, opens separately for access to coals. Ash catcher under grill.

Disadvantages: Height of grate is not adjustable; food can only be cooked six inches above the coals.

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