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Cuisine de Bertranou : Restaurant dining in Los Angeles took a giant step when the late Jean Bertranou opened L'Ermitage 15 years ago. The following L.A. chefs all worked with Bertranou.

September 23, 1990|Kathie Jenkins \f7

Michel Blanchet of L'Ermitage, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 652-5840. Style: The last bastion of really correct French cooking in L.A. Blanchet has been at the restaurant since its beginning. Setting: Dark and muted. Recommended: Truffle soup (when in season); saddle of rabbit; home-cured salmon. Cost per person: $45-$65.

Mark Carter of Duplex, 1930 Hillhurst Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 663-2430. Style: Cozy neighborhood restaurant serving serious food. Setting: Homey, with soft lights and mellow walls. Recommended: Minced pork salad; duck and eggplant Charlotte, rabbit marinated in grappa. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Bruce Marder of West Beach Cafe, 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice. (213) 823-5396. \o7 Style: \f7 Swank artists' watering hole. \o7 Setting: \f7 Good art on the walls; men with ponytails; Porsche roadsters in the parking lot. \o7 Recommended: \f7 Caesar salad; free-range chicken; tuna and sea scallops. \o7 Cost per person: \f7 $35-$50.

Kazuto Matsusaka of Chinois on Main, 2709 Main St., Santa Monica. (213) 392-9025. \o7 Style: \f7 Along with owner Wolfgang Puck, chef Matsusaka has redefined California-Asian cuisine. \o7 Setting: \f7 Atomic elan. \o7 Recommended: \f7 Whole catfish stuffed with ginger; sauteed \o7 foie gras \f7 with pineapple; \o7 creme brulee. Cost per person: \f7 $35-$50.

John Sedlar of St. Estephe, 2640 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach. (213) 545-1334. \o7 Style: \f7 Minimal portions of memorable Southwestern. \o7 Setting: \f7 Adobe dining. \o7 Recommended: Tomatillo \f7 and tomato soup; blue corn tortillas with caviar; grilled fish. \o7 Cost per person: \f7 $35-$50.

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