TULENEUT ON BOL'SHOY ANYUY RIVER, Soviet Union — The thundering hoofs of 3,000 reindeer making their way down the steep arctic mountain slopes grew steadily louder.

Whistles and shouted commands from eight herders added to the clamor as the huge antlered animals headed for the turquoise-colored, ice-choked Bol'shoy Anyuy River.

Every time some of the herd peeled off and headed in the wrong direction, dogs raced to the strays, leaping high into the air and nipping at their legs.

Gathered at the foot of the treeless mountain in the grass and lichen-covered river valley were the reindeer herders' wives and children.

There also were four doctors and two nurses from a Soviet government-sponsored medical brigade making their periodic visit. They were accompanied by a dozen members of an Alaskan medical expedition, who had come to share information and observe the procedures of caring for these nomadic people in this faraway place.

Tuleneut, the reindeer herders camp, is 100 miles north of the Arctic Circle and an equal distance from the nearest town. No roads lead here.

The Eveni herdsmen were not surprised by the presence of the medical brigade. Nor was the bright orange Aeroflot helicopter they had come in considered unusual.

But the Americans, now that was something else. The Eveni had never seen Americans before. To mark this most unusual occasion, they decided to prepare a feast.

A herdsman lassoed a reindeer from those gathered along the shores of the frozen river. He ran alongside it for several minutes, gradually reeling in the rope.

He wrestled the reindeer to the ground, holding onto its antlers as the other herdsmen and their families ran toward him. One of the men plunged a long knife repeatedly into the animal until it was dead.

Two of the wives quickly cut the hide away, then they removed the heart, ribs and various body parts as small children gathered close to watch.

The meat was carried into one of the herders' reindeer-hide \o7 yarangas \f7 (huge tent home), where it was boiled in big pots over an open fire.

People picked the meat from a serving bowl and ate it with their hands; the Americans, the medical brigade and the Eveni all enjoyed the meal of tender and flavorful--not gamy--reindeer.