* Jonathan Gold does a shoddy job of checking out doughnut shops and proceeds with his usual "Melrose" snobbery to sample and sneer at the plebeian but much loved pastry. Would you send a vegetarian to rate steaks or a rabbi to taste-test pork chops?
Leave Gold to his trendoid trips to Beverly Hills and skip the down-the-nose treatment of the "people's breakfast." The omissions of Designer Donuts on Sunset and Zamoras in South Gate show a lack of serious homework.
GLEN C. DADIK, Los Angeles