Salerno, 220 Beach St., Laguna Beach. Open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesdays through Mondays. (714) 497-2600. Owner Tony Manzi's accent is nearly as thick as his meat sauce, and his menu is just as hearty. Try the gnocchi, baked mostaccoli with italian sausage or, if you happen to be dining with understanding friends, the fettuccini with garlic and oil.