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Thanksgiving : What you eat for Thanksgiving dinner says a lot about you. Just by looking at your meal, some scholars can tell where you come from. Who eats these dishes? Answers begin on H13. : Regions: You Are What You Eat

November 15, 1990

Texas Menu Chicken and Dumplings Turkey with corn bread dressing Buttered boiled onions Cabbage salad Potato salad Coconut Cake Chocolate cake Curdled custard Buttermilk Tea CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS

1 (4-pound) chicken, cut up

Chicken broth

2 carrots, peeled and cut in 1-inch pieces

2 stalks celery, cut in 1-inch pieces

1 onion, quartered

4 to 6 black peppercorns

Salt

Buttermilk Dumplings

3 tablespoons flour

Chopped parsley

Place chicken in large pot. Add chicken broth or water to cover chicken. Add carrots, celery, onion, peppercorns and salt. Bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until chicken is tender, about 1 hour. Remove vegetables and chicken and reserve.

When Buttermilk Dumplings are ready, bring broth back to boil. Drop dumplings by tablespoonful into boiling broth. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Remove dumplings and keep warm.

Reduce broth to 1 quart. Blend together flour and 3 tablespoons water. Stir into simmering broth. Heat until thickened. Add reserved vegetables and chicken and heat through. Serve topped with Dumplings. Garnish with chopped parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Buttermilk Dumplings

1 1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 egg

1/2 cup buttermilk

3 tablespoons melted butter

Combine flour, baking powder, salt, sage and parsley in bowl. Beat egg in another bowl. Stir in buttermilk and melted butter. Stir into dry ingredients to blend.

COCONUT CAKE (From "Glorious American Food" by Christopher Idone)

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1 cup sugar

4 eggs, separated

2 cups flour

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup fresh or canned coconut milk

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Lemon Filling

Seven-Minute Icing

1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks, one at time, beating until blended.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Alternately add with coconut milk to yolk mixture. Stir in lemon zest.

Beat egg whites in separate bowl until stiff and glossy. Gently fold into batter. Divide batter equally between 2 buttered and floured 8-inch cake pans. Bake at 350 degrees 25 to 30 minutes, or until cake pulls away from sides of pan.

Remove from pans and cool on wire racks.

Trim tops and bottoms of each cake with serrated knife. Cut each cake horizontally in half. Spread three layers with Lemon Filling, stacking evenly. Cover with remaining cake layer. Ice cake with Seven-Minute Frosting. Cover tops and sides with shredded coconut. Makes 10 servings.

Lemon Filling

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/3 cups water

8 egg yolks, at room temperature

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons butter

Dissolve cornstarch in 1/3 cup water in bowl, then mix in yolks. Combine lemon juice, sugar and remaining 1 cup water in medium saucepan (non-aluminum). Bring to boil. Remove from heat and whisk in butter until smooth. Place sheet plastic wrap directly on surface of filling and set aside.

Seven-Minute Icing

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 egg whites, at room temperature

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/4 cup ice water

Combine sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar and ice water in large heat-proof mixing bowl. Set bowl over pot of boiling water and beat with electric mixer about 7 minutes, until soft peaks form. Remove from heat. Beat until stiff. Use immediately.

Midwestern Thanksgiving Menu Gravy Mashed potatoes Glazed Sweet Potatoes Tangy Cranberry Relish Creamed Peas and Onions Pumpkin pie Mincemeat pie CREAMED PEAS AND ONIONS

3 tablespoons butter

2 cups peeled pearl onions or 1 (1-pound) can boiling onions, drained

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup whipping cream

1 1/2 cups milk

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 (2-pound) package frozen peas, thawed and drained

Freshly grated or ground nutmeg

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in saucepan. Add and saute onions until lightly browned. Remove and reserve.

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in same saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute. Slowly add whipping cream and milk, heating and stirring until smooth and thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add peas and simmer 5 to 10 minutes until tender, stirring frequently. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg. Serve hot, garnished with sprinkling of extra nutmeg. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

GLAZED SWEET POTATOES

3 to 4 pounds sweet potatoes or yams (about 6 medium)

6 tablespoons butter

1 cup brown sugar, packed

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup pecan halves, optional

Wash sweet potatoes. In large saucepan, heat enough salted water to cover sweet potatoes to boiling. Add potatoes. Cover and simmer about 35 minutes, or until tender. Drain. Slip off skins. Cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices.

Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Stir in brown sugar and 1/4 cup water. Heat until bubbly. Add sweet potato slices and heat through until glazed, stirring gently. Sprinkle with lemon zest and pecan halves. Place under broiler for 5 minutes to brown top, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

Variations:

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