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November 15, 1990|JIM COLONNA

Ristorante Genovese, 214 N. Tustin Ave., Orange. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, 5-10 p.m. (714) 633-5654. A family-run restaurant that's intimate yet casual, classy yet reasonable, and serves deep red, rich, garlic-laden sauce straight from the soul of Sicily. Pasta dishes are popular, and the steak alla Sicilian is extraordinary. But no place is perfect. It's closed Sundays and Mondays.

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