Concerning David Sibley's "Restaurant Criticism Requires Substance and Not Triviality" (Counterpunch, Nov. 12), in which Sibley, an owner of Lunaria, criticizes Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl:
I am among the many readers who enjoy Reichl's reviews, as much for the humor as the actual critique.
I like hearing what Reichl's guests and the "Reluctant Gourmet" think, because I'm not a food critic. I don't go into spasms of rapture when tasting the perfect truffle (heck, I've never even tasted a truffle). But I like to go out once in awhile, and I want to know where I'll be treated warmly, will be served good food and have a nice time.
While I may not get to Jimmy's or Spago very often (read never ), reading Reichl's descriptions are the next best thing.
TRACY DES COMBES