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How Do Vegetarians Celebrate the Holidays? : Menus: Several chefs from leading vegetarian restaurants dish out recipes for meatless holiday dinners.

December 16, 1990|ROSE DOSTI | TIMES STAFF WRITER

What would you serve in place of ham or turkey or roast if, this year, you were going vegetarian?

The Times asked several chefs from restaurants that serve vegetarian food to help us out with an entree from their menu. Here are the results from chef Annie Somerville of Greens, an all-vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco; manager Winston Winslow of the Source, one of Los Angeles' oldest vegetarian/now Continental restaurants; Brian Houde, chef at Nowhere Cafe in Los Angeles, and chef Manuel Broulard of the Inn of the Seventh Ray in Topanga Canyon.

We've included a salad and dessert to help you round out the meal if following the menus becomes too difficult. Try them on special occasions or throughout the year.

\o7 Here's a sit-down menu that originated at the Tassajara and Zen Center for Christmas, Thanksgiving, Buddha's birthday and Buddha's Enlightenment Day celebration when Green's chef, Annie Somerville, was a student there.

GREENS HEARTY HOLIDAY MENU

Sage hearth bread

Butternut squash and apple soup with creme fraiche and mint

Green's Cheese and Nut Loaf With Wild Mushroom Gravy

Cranberry-pear relish

Sauteed kale and chestnuts with brown butter

Grilled fennel

Salad of Winter Greens

Persimmon-mascarpone tart

Mineral water with Pinot Noir grape juice

SALAD OF WINTER

GREENS

1 head radicchio

1 head escarole

1 bunch watercress

1 head frise

1 head Belgian endive

3 tangerines

Citrus Shallot Vinaigrette

Freshly ground black pepper

3 kumquats

1/4 cup pomegranate seeds

Break or cut radicchio and escarole into bite-size pieces. Place in large bowl. Break watercress, frise and endive into same bowl.

Peel and section tangerines and add to greens. Toss with Citrus Shallot Vinaigrette. Season to taste with pepper. Garnish with kumquats and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. Makes 8 servings.

Citrus Shallot Vinaigrette

Zest of 1 tangerine

2 tablespoons tangerine juice

1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar

5 tablespoons light olive oil

1 teaspoon minced shallots

Salt

Combine tangerine zest and juice, vinegar, olive oil and shallots, mixing well. Season to taste with salt. Makes about 1/2 cup.

GREENS CHEESE AND

NUT LOAF

WITH WILD MUSHROOM GRAVY

1 1/2 cups walnuts

1/2 cup cashews

1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced, optional

2 tablespoons margarine

Salt

1/2 cup chopped mushrooms

1/2 to 1 ounce dried shiitake or porcini mushrooms, stems removed, soaked 20 minutes in hot water and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or 1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage

1 1/2 cups cooked brown rice

4 eggs, beaten

1 cup cottage cheese

9 to 12 ounces shredded Gruyere, Cheddar, Muenster, Fontina or Jack cheese

Pepper

Wild Mushroom Gravy

Roast walnuts and cashews at 350 degrees until toasty, about 5 to 7 minutes. Chop fine and set aside.

Cook onion and garlic in margarine over medium heat until translucent. Season to taste with salt. Add chopped mushrooms, dried mushrooms, parsley, thyme, marjoram and sage. Cook until liquid released by mushrooms has been reduced.

Combine onion mixture with rice, nuts, eggs, cottage cheese and shredded cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Lightly butter 9x5-inch loaf pan. Line with buttered wax paper or parchment paper. Fill pan with mixture and bake at 375 degrees 1 hour or until golden. Loaf should be firm to touch.

Allow loaf to stand 10 minutes before turning out onto serving platter. Remove paper. Serve with Wild Mushroom Gravy. Makes 1 loaf.

Wild Mushroom Gravy

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon flour

1 1/2 cups Wild Mushroom Stock

1 1/2 teaspoons tomato sauce or 1 teaspoon pureed sun-dried tomatoes

2 tablespoons whipping cream or creme fraiche

Salt, pepper

Melt butter in saucepan. Stir in flour and cook over low heat 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Bring Wild Mushroom Stock to boil. Whisk into cooled flour mixture. Stir in tomato sauce and cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook sauce over low heat, stirring frequently, 25 to 35 minutes. Makes about 2 cups.

Wild Mushroom Stock

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

1 cup hot water

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

4 ounces mushrooms, sliced or chopped

2 medium carrots, peeled and diced

2 stalks celery, diced

1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup leek greens, coarsely cut into 1-inch pieces

4 to 6 fresh thyme sprigs or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

6 sprigs parsley, coarsely chopped

3 sage leaves or large dash dried sage

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

9 cups cold water

Cover dried mushrooms with hot water and set aside.

Heat olive oil in stockpot and add mushrooms, carrots, celery, onion, leeks, thyme, bay leaves, parsley, sage, garlic and salt. Cook, stirring, 5 minutes over medium-high heat.

Add dried mushrooms and soaking liquid, plus cold water. Bring to boil. Simmer 45 minutes. Strain stock through fine-meshed sieve. Use as is, or return to stove to reduce further for intensified flavor.

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