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January 10, 1991|ZAN DUBIN

Bagels Etc., The Bagel Maven's Choice, 270 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa. Open Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday till 3 p.m. (714) 645-7877. While nothing can compete with Wolf's delicatessen in Manhattan, these are the best bagels this side of Sixth Avenue: soft and chewy inside with a hard shell that cracks, not bends. Their 15 varieties include egg, blueberry, whole wheat apple walnut and pizza.

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