With one major exception, the wines of the Robert Mondavi Winery have maintained a consistency of style throughout the years.
The best wine in the line, the one that has given Mondavi international acclaim, is the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Made primarily from a block of grapes growing just behind the winery, it is usually deeply concentrated, with noticeable toastiness from its aging in French oak barrels. Price of the wine recently rose to $50 a bottle.
The regular bottling of Napa Valley Cabernet ($16.75, a good value) has become a Napa Valley prototype, replacing what was once the standard bearer for the valley, Beaulieu Vineyard's Rutherford Cabernet. The Mondavi wine is herbal, round and more approachable than most wines in the valley. Both Cabernets age beautifully.
Mondavi's Napa Valley Chardonnay ($13.50) has remained similar in style throughout the years, getting a bit less unctuous, though the flavors are a little fat. The Reserve Chardonnay ($27.50) is a bigger, fatter statement, with loads of oak and extract, and less fruit than I prefer.