I am genuinely disappointed in Jonathan Gold's review of lower-fat foods currently being offered by many fast-service restaurants (Counter Intelligence, May 16). As a registered dietitian, I applaud the efforts of McDonald's, Pollo Loco, Taco Bell, etc. to provide the choices that health-conscious consumers are looking for. I find Gold's obvious disdain for anything that hints at lower fat to be typical of many in the food industry, including those who operate fine-food establishments. This attitude is haughty and unforgiving--and sorely lacks consciousness.
Until chefs--and journalists reviewing restaurants--recognize their role in the "fattening" of America and change their high-fat ways, I see little relief for the American public.
I must concur that fat tastes good. Many of the essences of flavor and aroma are fat-soluble substances. Still, it is hardly appropriate to expect lower-fat foods to taste exactly like their higher-fat counterparts.
a registered dietitian and nutrition consultant
Modugno does work for Gelman & Gray Communications, which represents McDonald's owner-operators in Southern California.