When we last visited Fennel, three years ago, it had a wine list with every possible flaw. It was poorly chosen and overpriced, with many off-vintages.
When the four owners initiated the recent changes, the wine list was not overlooked. The result is an amazing transformation. The new list is more compact, but it offers more exciting choices, and at prices anyone can afford.
In keeping with the bistro theme, the list now includes such excellent finds as 1989 Domaines Ott Rose from Provence, $27, and 1988 Hugel Gewurztraminer, $26. Both are priced just a few dollars above retail.
For the more mainstream-minded, the Chardonnay listing includes such good values as a 1988 Montagny from Boillot, $30, and 1987 Sterling Diamond Ranch Mountain Reserve, $25.