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March 08, 1992|CHARLES SOLOMON

LONG AGO IN FRANCE: The Years in Dijon by M. F .K. Fisher (Touchstone: $10). If Paris in the '20s was a movable feast for Ernest Hemingway, Dijon in 1929 was a sensual carnival for M. F .K. Fisher. In this lively memoir, Fisher shares a young woman's delight in the awakening of her senses to the food, wine, smells and sounds of a deliciously alien environment. While they studied in the old provincial capital, Fisher and her husband lived in the former servants' quarters of a town house run successively (if not successfully) by two redoubtable cooks. Cautiously at first, but with growing enthusiasm, they explored the heartily exquisite delights of traditional Burgundian cooking. Warmly personal reading for the amateur adventurer or gourmet.

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