Wearing Out the Recession With a Closetful of Classics

N ew year, old recession. All right, we're willing to try to spend our way out of it, but how about this time we spend smarter? No wear- ' em-once outfits, no glitzy abominations that are incredibly in today and even more incredibly out next week. This time, let's shop with an eye to true style and real value, plugging the holes in our wardrobes with stuff that'll be around for the long haul. Can it be done?

SHE: For years, I've tried to spend smart--invest in pricey classics in basic shades. I've bought the straight black skirt made of fine wool, for example, and the perfectly tailored black blazer, the black cashmere cardigan, the black theater suit.

Problem is, I've overdosed on black. The inside of my closet looks like a coal mine.

In 1993, I resolve to buy a few reasonably priced classics in a bright color or two.

HE: Men have it easier when it comes to classic dressing. Take a look at the items that have endured and you'll find that quite a lot of them were inspired either by the military or by sports.

The double-breasted blue blazer, for instance, comes almost untouched from the Navy, and the trench coat you buy today is nearly identical in basic design to the ones that were issued in the trenches in World War I. And how about all those spiffy regimental ties?

Hunting (the kind with foxes and horses, not guns) has accounted for the tweed hacking jacket. Golf has given us the green single-breasted blazer. Flying has given us the A-2 leather jacket (the greatest leather jacket of all time). Skiing and mountaineering have produced the stylish parka and fishing has given us the Irish cable-knit sweater.

A guy could do a lot worse than to have any of these in his closet.

SHE: Women have borrowed all of those looks. And they serve us beautifully.

But sometimes it's fun to toss on a reasonably priced trend-of-the-moment for a waltz out the door. In recessionary times, a trendy accessory can be a good mood elevator. I resolve in '93 to buy one or two now trinkets just for the fun of it.

The only trendy thing I bought in '92 was a military jacket by Donna Karan. In black, natch. Come to think of it, it's trendy, but classic . The perfect purchase!

HE: I made out a pretty ambitious clothing wish list last month--tantamount to a thorough wardrobe overhaul--and I was mildly surprised to find that there was nothing, and I mean nothing trendy on it.