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Aroma Overkill

July 29, 1993

Dan Berger's article on wine tasting ("But Is It Worth 30 Bucks?" July 1) reached a true zenith of silliness. Berger compared wines to apples (plain, spiced and green), pear, citrus, olives, pineapple, grapefruit, lime, tropicals (I guess that gets mangoes, bananas and any other fruit that might have been missed).

Going beyond fruit, Berger also gives us butter, oak, butterscotch, cinnamon, honey and toast, onion skin, white pepper . . . and hay ! He concludes with "lees," which are defined as dregs .

Luckily, at least one person at Berger's tasting, a "consumer with little judging experience, said the wine was terrific." I hope this consumer noticed enough flavor of grape to warrant overlooking the price.

--CHUCK WELCH

Los Angeles

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