Is bigger always better? Until it went out of business, the tiny Franco-Asian restaurant C'est Fan Fan, near downtown L.A., counted many big-name chefs among its fans. Now the restaurant has turned up in a new, larger spot closer to the Westside.
As before, you choose one of two menus--one, $31, with chicken salad, smoked salmon and caviar, a choice of lamb chops or fish and dessert; the other, $39, with a mushroom terrine, sauteed foie gras, a choice of roast lobster or Peking duck and dessert. But the experience is much less intimate than before--now you sit at tables, far from the kitchen action (though the door is left open for easy peeking). There are still a few kinks to work out in both the service and food. We remain hopeful.