* Red Dog Saloon, Juneau. Among the old firearms behind the bar is a gun that Wyatt Earp supposedly deposited on his way to the gold fields in the 1890s . . . and never reclaimed. Overhead, amid other marine memorabilia autographed by ships' crews, is a flag from the infamous Exxon Valdez; management swears it's the banner the ill-fated tanker was flying when it ran aground in Prince William Sound in 1989. Indeed, the decor of the venerable Red Dog--one of the first places cruise-ship passengers see when they alight in the state capital--reflects a century of Alaskan whimsy and history. Though it has changed location several times, this friendly saloon still boasts decor straight out of a taxidermist's shop. But the argonauts of yesteryear didn't have a bustling souvenir shop or the adjoining Cook House restaurant, which re-creates a turn-of-the-century mining camp atmosphere. (The menu offers what may be the state's biggest hamburger: two pounds, served on a pizza-size bun with two pounds of French fries on the side for $13.95.)
* Red Onion Saloon, Skagway. Many moons have passed since this former brothel served its customers more than drinks, but cutouts of scantily clad young women still peer through the red-lit upstairs windows, overlooking what was once the main route to the Klondike Gold Rush; monogrammed garters are the best-selling souvenir. The Red Onion has live jazz frequently, honky-tonk piano and jukebox always, and dancing wherever patrons find floor space. It serves huge deli-style sandwiches at lunch, too. Like many other establishments in tourism-oriented Skagway, the Red Onion closes for the winter.