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Waves of Culinary Delight Are Astir at the Sunset Grille

RESTAURANTS / MAX JACOBSON

July 21, 1994|MAX JACOBSON | Max Jacobson is a free-lance writer who reviews restaurants weekly for the Times Orange County.

Grovier makes a great, enormous fruit crisp with an oatmeal topping, big enough for three. There is a strawberry mousse pie with an Oreo crumb crust, caramel sauce and a name only Julie Andrews could pronounce: chocostramellicious. Grovier's creamy banana brulee is inspired. Nothing goes quite so well with the smooth, egg rich taste of a creme brulee as these thin slices of sweet banana, caramelized around the edges.

But I never got to taste the "chocolate thigh cream," which is only intermittently available. The chef says this pate-like confection of crushed macadamia and pecans, cappuccino and amaretto confected with a pound of chocolate, a pound of butter and a whole lot of whipped cream is hard to make; I'm coming back as soon as he makes more, and I promise not to smear any on my surfboard.

Sunset Grille and Bar is moderately priced. Appetizers are $2.95 to $7.95. Entrees are $9.95 to $16.95. Desserts are $4.95.

* SUNSET GRILLE AND BAR

* 34150 Pacific Coast Highway, Dana Point.

* (714) 661-5220.

* Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; brunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.

* American Express, MasterCard and Visa accepted.

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