Stretching through the Hanbury Gardens, a botanical preserve near the Italian town of Ventimiglia on the Ligurian coast, is a fragment of the Via Amelia--an ancient Roman road. Now little more than a wide dirt pathway, it is marked with a sign that proclaims, "Here passed Pope Innocent IV, Pope Paul III, Emperor Charles V, Machiavelli, Catherine of Siena, Napoleon." Although I realize full well that the stones that line the road weren't laid by Romans, that the trees and shrubs that crowd its flanks are probably no more than a few generations old, that the dirt itself must date from modern times, still the road and sign evoke a momentary chill.

