Getting there: Alitalia flies nonstop daily from Los Angeles to Milan's Malpensa airport. American and TWA offer connecting flights via Chicago and New York, respectively. Delta and United have connecting flights to Milan and Verona, via Paris. From Milan, take the two-hour train to Verona that leaves approximately every hour; $25 one way for first class. A convenient bus connects the airport and Milan's train station, one hour away ($8-$9). Driver/guides can be hired for $100 per day in Verona. Buses leave from central Verona to all villages mentioned, except Ferrazze, an easy walk from Montorio.
Where to stay: The Due Torri, 4 Piazza S. Anastasia, Verona, telephone 595-044, fax 800-4130. The most extravagant hotel in the area and furnished with antiques, the Due Torri is right out of ancient Verona. In the middle of the Piazza Arabe; the famous Sant'Anastasia cathedral is nearby. Rates: $205-$304. Antica Porta Leona, 3 Corticella Leoni, Verona, tel. 595-499. A charmer just a stone's throw from "Juliet's balcony" and the Piazza Arabe. Rates: $66-$108.
Where to eat: In Verona, I Dodici Apostoli, Corticella San Marco 3, tel. 596-999. Expensive but good traditional Veronese food--boiled meats, polentas, small game birds; $100. Da L'Amelia, 32 Lungadige Rubele, tel. 800-5526. An excellent all-around restaurant; $70-$80. Caval de Oro, 1 Via Ponte Florio, tel. 558-542, a tiny trattoria at Ponte Florio on the road to Montorio; $40-$80.