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COOKSTUFF

The Caviar of Cheeses

February 22, 1996

Once a year, from a small family operation in Parma, Italy, comes this fragrant, extravagant Parmesanlike grana cheese flecked with white truffles. We love the way the nutty flavor of the cheese blends with the muskiness of the white truffles. But after cooking with it a bit--we tried a simple risotto--it became clear that the best way to enjoy this pricey luxury is to eat it on its own--slowly--with a good bottle of wine. Available for $22 per 125-gram wedge at The Cheese Store on Beverly Drive in Beverly Hills.

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