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RESTAURANT SPECIAL | Mole Verde

Hit Singles

April 28, 1996|JONATHAN GOLD

Where to find the best Belgian waffle? A magnificent mole verde? To-die-for dim sum? Times restaurant reviewers Linda Burum, Michelle Huneven, Jonathan Gold, Max Jacobson and S. Irene Virbila give their favorite platters a spin.

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Guelaguetza serves the kind of Oaxacan dishes you've only read about in travel magazines: dense, banana-leaf-wrapped tamales, flatbreads called clayudas, unstuffed enchiladas with cheese and Oaxaca's famous seven moles, complex mortar-pounded concoctions of seeds, nuts and herbs. Guelaguetza serves by far the best black mole in town. But the rare verde de espinazo, a thick, spicy broth with pureed spinach, barely tart and flavored with mint, is quite unlike anything you've ever tasted.

Guelaguetza, 3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Los Angeles. (213) 427-0601. Mole, $6.

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