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WINES | Wine of the Week

November 14, 1996|S. IRENE VIRBILA

1994 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve ($31.99)

Robert Mondavi is the Antinori of the Napa Valley, doing a good, if unexciting, job on moderately priced wines. But when he pulls out all the stops, the results can be outstanding.

That's what he's done with his 1994 Pinot Noir Reserve. Fermented on the yeast and unfiltered, with 80% of the grapes coming from the Napa side of the Carneros district, it is an elegant wine of subtle charms. There's a soft, lush quality, with scents of raspberry and cherry and just enough Pinot funk to intrigue, along with a rasp of tannin and a lovely ripe taste that lingers in the mouth.

Drink it now or hold it back a couple of years. It would be terrific match with Thanksgiving turkey, or any game bird for that matter.

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