1995 Forman Winery Chardonnay "Napa Valley" ($25)

Ever since Rick Forman, the winemaker at one time at Sterling Vineyards and later at Newton Vineyard, struck out on his own in the early '80s, the wines he's made under his own label have been favorites with insiders. Fleshy and opulent, his beautifully structured 1995 Napa Valley Chardonnay has enough acidity to make it exceptionally food-friendly. It should also age well tucked away in a corner of your cellar or a cool closet.