SANTA CRUZ ISLAND — Far below the bluffs that overlook the century-old adobe buildings at Scorpion Ranch, it's easy to tell that Channel Islands National Park has embarked on something new.
The gentle anchorage, once the destination of only the saltiest of seafarers, is now crowded with dozens of pleasure boats. The quiet pumice stone beaches bustle with kayakers, snorkelers, hikers and bird-watchers preparing for a day of discovery on this newest addition to the park.
After years of struggling to boost attendance at the remote five-island park, officials are heartened to see the crowds that have followed February's purchase of the final piece of east Santa Cruz Island.
"People are starting to catch on that this is the best national park in the world," said park Supt. Tim Setnicka.
The National Park Service has estimated that more than 1,100 private boaters have cruised the islands during weekends this summer, a 400% increase from the average that sailed or motored there in years past.
And while the number of visitors reaching the park by scheduled ferry service has remained constant, the face of today's island visitor has changed markedly.
"We've got a much different kind of clientele than we had a few years ago," said Glen Galbraith from the bridge of the 65-foot Vanguard. "It used to be that we'd get a lot of hunters or real serious hikers, but now it's mostly families and day-trippers."
Park officials like to credit the islands' rugged wilderness and scenic beauty with fueling their newfound popularity. But economics plays a huge role.
Since the park service assumed ownership of the last sliver of east Santa Cruz from Oxnard attorney Francis Gherini, it has eliminated the $15 boat landing fees and $25 camping fees imposed by Gherini's hunting concessionaire.
"I've been coming to the Channel Islands since I was a little girl, but we never really ever stopped and got off. It was too expensive," said 34-year-old sailing enthusiast Dana Whaley of San Luis Obispo. "Now there are more boats anchored out there than I've ever seen before."
For now, entrance to all the islands is free; however, visitors without their own watercraft must shell out $40 or more to travel to Santa Cruz Island on chartered boats run by Island Packers, the park's designated concessionaire, which also offers boat trips to the other four islands.
Some visitors pay $85 to $150 to fly across the Santa Barbara Channel and land on Santa Cruz's bumpy dirt airstrip.
