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Sandwich Sources

January 21, 1998|CHALRES PERRY


Behind a vaguely scruffy exterior, this is a sophisticated international market with foods from all over Europe and the Middle East.

Breads: Unusual Armenian types, such as hrazdan, which breaks into puffy rolls.

Cheeses: Large selection including the usual Italian cheeses, Slovakian kashkaval, three kinds of French blue (St. Agur, Societe and Papillon), Swiss Emmental, sheep's milk fetas from France and Bulgaria and even a couple of Egyptian-style cheeses made in Denmark.

Meats: Italian salami, pancetta, sopressata and prosciutto di Parma. Also Hungarian salami, French ham, Armenian cured meats (soujouk, basturma) and mortadellas, including an excellent Canadian-made one.

Recommended sandwich: Canadian mortadella and Swiss Emmental.

Don't miss: Turkish olives; powerfully flavored tapenade in bottles.

5235 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (213) 462-8407. 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Sunday-Friday; 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday.


Bavarian-trained Michael Obermayer makes all his own sausages and hams; at any given time, there will be an astonishing 40 or 50 kinds on sale. He also sells homemade sauerkraut and salads (herring, German potato, etc.) and a wide selection of German beers and mustards.

Breads: Huge range, mostly rye, including Russian, Polish and Baltic as well as German breads.

Cheeses: Tilsitter, Edam, Emmental, Bavarian Limburger, butterkase (butter cheese with caraway), Brie, Camembert. Also European cheese spreads.

Meats: Many in the mortadella-bologna family, such as mortadellas with pistachios or pieces of ham, many salami-like dried sausages, including Hungarian and Russian styles, liver sausages, head cheese, bierwurst, two kinds of blood sausage, spreadable veal sausage and five hams, hardwood-smoked on the premises.

Recommended sandwich: Black Forest ham on rye. However, Atlas' biggest seller at Super Bowl time is a very flavorful Thuringer bratwurst (the Sheboygan type), to be served hot.

Don't miss: Fleischsalat, a light salad or sandwich filling of thinly sliced ham, mayonnaise and pickles.

10626 Burbank Blvd., North Hollywood, (818) 763-2692. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday.


This is a busy restaurant with a substantial catering business. The thing to do is order--better make it a day in advance--either a party sandwich tray (minimum order 10 people) or sandwich platter (minimum 6), the difference being that the former is on rye and egg bread and the latter on rolls. There are also giant sandwiches on French bread in 4- to 6-foot lengths, not to mention a variety of appetizer trays (lox and cream cheese, chopped liver, whitefish salad, etc.) and traditional party hors d'oeuvres, such as deviled eggs and cocktail franks.

Breads: Small selection notable for excellent rye.

Cheeses: Swiss, American, Cheddar, Jack, provolone, Muenster, Edam.

Meats: All the usual deli meats: corned beef, pastrami, roast beef, turkey, salami.

Recommended sandwich: The exceptional corned beef, on rye.

Don't miss: Overwhelming four-layer chocolate cake and giant chocolate eclairs.

19565 Parthenia Ave., Northridge, (818) 886-5679; fax (818) 886-1561. 6 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

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