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EATS: Restaurant Reviews and News | IN THE MOOD


January 29, 1998

Chickens have a tendency to dominate rotisseries in this town, but many other delicious meats and poultry benefit from a good twirl over hot coals:

* Tam O'Shanter: In addition to a juicy rotisserie chicken, this landmark restaurant cooks prime rib of pork, legs of lamb and, on special occasions, plump, juicy geese on the spit. Rotisserie ducks are available every day, and there's a terrific rotisserie pork sandwich at lunch. (Rotisserie pork sandwich, $7.95, rotisserie entrees, $13.95-$16.95.) Tam O'Shanter, 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 664-0228.

* Cosmos Grill & Rotisserie: Chef Bruce Boyer augments his eclectic California cuisine with a variety of rotisserie meats and poultry. Rotisserie duck comes with a different sauce every day, plus wild rice and sauteed vegetables. Rotisserie lamb has a Cabernet and rosemary sauce. Also look for the occasional mouthwatering spit-roasted beef tri tip. (Rotisserie entrees, $8.95 to $12.50.) Cosmos Grill & Rotisserie, 23631 Calabasas Road, Calabasas, (818) 591-2211.

* BG to Go: The basic rotisserie offerings at this high-end takeout counter include herbed chicken and baby back ribs, but keep on the lookout for specials of duck, lamb and pork loin. (Rotisserie meats and poultry, $7.25 to $15.) BG to Go, 12930 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 366-3246.

* Vincenti Ristorante: Beautifully seasoned lamb, duck breasts, rabbit, chicken and various cuts of beef can be ordered singly or in an assortment of your choice in this new Brentwood restaurant. (Rotisserie meats, $25.) Vincenti Ristorante, 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 207-0127.

* Le Chardonnay: In this elegant room, a rotisserie of roasting fowl and meats twirls in plain sight. Try the rotisserie rack of pork marinated in herbs, lemon and orange peel and served on a bed of scalloped potatoes. There is also a rotisserie duck with citrus sauce and the ever-popular chicken. (Rotisserie meats, $17.50 to $24.) Le Chardonnay, 8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 239-6500.

* Rincon Taurino #1: On small, upright rotisseries throughout the city, the marinated pork dish known as al pastor is cooked, then carved off in shreds for tacos and burritos. One of our favorite sources is the original Rincon Taurino in Panorama City; we recommend the burrito. (Burrito al pastor, $2.60.) Rincon Taurino #1, 14551 Nordhoff St., Panorama City, (818) 893-5927.

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