The classic treatment for catfish is to bread it in seasoned cornmeal (cayenne pepper brings out its sweetness) and deep-fry. But you can also find it grilled, blackened, slipped into sandwiches--and sizzling!
* Chan Darette: There's an entire menu section here entitled "Everybody Loves Our Catfish." You'll find deep-fried catfish with Thai salsa and soy sauce, catfish "cha cha" (deep-fried filets sauteed with red curry cream sauce) and a catfish filet with a colorful Thai chile sauce. (Catfish dishes, $10.95 to $18.95.) Chan Darette, 13490 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey, (310) 301-1004.
* Chinois on Main: The most popular dish at Wolfgang Puck's Franco-Asian restaurant may well be the sizzling whole catfish, stuffed with ginger and served with ponzu sauce. (Catfish, $23.) Chinois on Main, 2709 Main St., Santa Monica (310) 392-9025.
* The Gumbo Pot: We recommend the juicy catfish po'boy, filled with a crunchy fried filet, tomato, lettuce--and the thinnest slivers of fresh lemon. There's also a catfish plate, served with your choice of side salads or sweet potato chips and a good hunk of corn bread. (Catfish po'boy, $5.95; catfish plate, $6.95.) The Gumbo Pot, Farmers' Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (213) 933-0358.
