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Eats: Restaurant Reviews and News | In the Mood

Tube Pastas

October 01, 1998

With cooler weather come bigger appetites. How about a big bowl of tube pasta--penne, rigatoni, macaroni--with red sauce?

* Campagnola: Try the penne salsicce, with Italian sausage, mushrooms, chopped tomatoes and black olives; or the hearty and unique penne all'agnello, with sliced lamb loin, peas, mushrooms and a touch of brown sauce. (Tube pastas, $8.95 to $11.) Campagnola Trattoria Italiana, 1553 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 478-7376.

* Padri: Chef Severio Posarelli makes small batches of fresh, sweet tomato sauce almost daily, which he uses on maccheroncetti, a miniature rigatoni with tiny meatballs made of veal and ricotta and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon zest; he also makes pennette vegetariani with sauteed zucchini and roasted bell peppers, ricotta cheese, oregano and his tomato sauce. (Pastas, $8.95-$9.50) Padri, 29002/8 Agoura Road, Agoura Hills, (818) 865-3700.

* Il Forno: This immensely popular pasta house serves satisfying bowls of the saucy penne alla puttanesca, quill-shaped pasta with capers, black olives, fresh garlic and anchovies in a crushed tomato sauce. There's also the simpler and satisfying penne all'arrabbiata, served with homemade spicy tomato and garlic sauce, and rigatoni (Tube pastas, $8.95 to $9.95.) Il Forno, 2901 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 450-1241.

* Buca de Beppo: The pastas here come family-style, which means they serve two to four people. Try the rigatoni Positano, with marinara sauce, julienned chicken breast, eggplant and mozzarella; or Buca rigatoni country style--rigatoni with canellini beans, fennel sausage and roasted red potatoes. (Tube pastas, $17.95 to 19.95.) Buca di Beppo, 81 W. Green St., Pasadena, (626) 792-7272.

* Replay Cafe: Where, after buying an expensive pair of European jeans, can you sit on an old- fashioned American front porch and eat hearty bowls of tube pasta? Replay Cafe, where the penne Sorrentina is made with a marinara sauce and mozzarell and rigatoni is sauced with tomato, cream, ham and Romano cheese. (Tube pastas, $8.75 to $9.50.) Replay Cafe, 8607 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (310) 657-6404.

* L'Arancino: A Sicilian standby is turcighiuni Norma: rigatoni with eggplant, tomato and baked ricotta. Or the ziti spada, with swordfish, tomato, cream, raisins, pine nuts, white fennel and Malvasia wine.(Tube pasta, $9 to $13.) L'Arancino, 8908 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 858-5777.

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