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Eats: Restaurant Reviews and News | In the Mood

Fresh Wild Mushrooms

October 15, 1998

Cepes, matsutakes, chanterelles, porcini and lobster mushrooms are appearing in a wide variety of cuisines and preparations.

* Tsukiji: When the beautiful, pale, full-flavored matsutake is in season, as now, the chefs at this esteemed sushi bar serve it broiled or as sushi and in a hearty matsutake broth. (Matsutake mushroom dishes, $15 to $20.) Tsukiji Restaurant, 1745 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., Gardena, (310) 323-4077.

* Lucques: Chef Suzanne Goin, formerly of Campanile, has opened this new cozy restaurant in Harold Lloyd's old carriage house. Try her appetizer of summer chanterelles from Oregon, which are sauteed and served with wilted frisee and creamy mascarpone-enriched polenta. (Mushroom appetizer, $12.) Lucques, 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (323) 655-6277.

* Xiomara: At this Nuevo Latino kitchen, start with a Florida rock shrimp tamale in a chanterelle salsa and move into the tasty churrasco, a marinated Nicaraguan skirt steak served medium-rare. (Tamale, $9; churrasco, $21.) Xiomara, 69 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 796-2520.

* Jozu: Try chef Suzanne Tracht's aromatic matsutake mushroom consomme with Chinese pork ravioli and lotus root. And don't miss the veal Porterhouse steak with Chinese pappardelle noodles topped with roasted wood ears, chanterelles and matsutakes and a drizzle of tamarind sauce. (Matsutake soup, $7; veal steak, $32.) Jozu, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 655-5600.

* Perroche: Chef Grady Atkins makes an arugula salad with fresh sauteed chanterelles, a scaloppine of veal and French cepes and a grilled yellowfin tuna with lobster mushrooms. (Chanterelle salad, $8; entrees, $19-$20.) Perroche, 11929 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 766-1179.

* Spago Beverly Hills: Try Lee Hefter's warm matsutake mushroom salad with garlic chives, wild watercress, lemon tomato confit and olive oil. (Mushroom dishes, $18 to $26.) Spago Beverly Hills, 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-0880.

* Vincenti: Chef Gino Angelini makes a warm salad with lobster, chanterelle, porcini and morel mushrooms, topped with Santa Barbara shrimp with tomato and parsley. For a heartier dish, try the pappardelle with fresh porcini. (Warm mushroom salad, $18; pasta, $16.) Vincenti Ristorante, 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 207-0127.

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