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Eats: Restaurant Reviews and News | In the Mood

More Summer Fruits

September 03, 1998

A few weeks ago, we ran a column on peaches. That was just a foretaste of this season's fresh fruit free-for-all. By now, melons, stone fruit, grapes and figs are turning into sorbets, doughnuts, tarts, crisps, pies and even soups!

* Donut Man: Hurry, hurry to Glendora--you have about two more weeks to get doughnuts filled to bursting with fresh, ripe sliced peaches in a juicy, homemade glaze. Worth a drive. (Peach doughnuts, $1.75.) Donut Man, 915 E. Alosta Ave., Glendora, (626) 963-7412.

* L'Ermitage: Elephant heart plums may be the reddest, most intense, most perfumed summer fruit. Angela Hunter, the pastry chef at this posh new hotel's restaurant, is making spiced elephant heart plum soup with huckleberry-opal basil sorbet. You might also try a filo tart with mixed fresh berries and lemon verbena sorbet. (Fruit desserts, $8.) L'Ermitage Beverly Hills, 9291 Burton Way, (310) 278-3344.

* Sweet Lady Jane: This time of year, the big seller at this beloved L.A. pastry shop is a large, deep-dish fresh peach and boysenberry pie. There are also plum tarts with a frangipani base, mixed fruit tarts (mango, melon, berry and grape). (Fruit tarts and cake: slice, $5; whole, $35.) Sweet Lady Jane, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 653-7145.

* A la Tarte: This charming French tea house and pa^tisserie in Pacific Palisades is offering luscious fresh fruit tarts, including peach-frangipani (a hot seller), plum, apricot (just for another week or so) and "tuttifrutti" with six different fresh fruits. (Individual fruit tarts, $4.75; 10-inch tarts, $22.) A la Tarte, 1037 Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades, (310) 459-6635.

* Water Grill: Wonyee Tom and her pastry staff are churning fresh peach and nectarine sorbet. They've also made honeydew melon soup with lemongrass-infused sour cream sorbet. Their Port-poached black mission figs come with vanilla mascarpone cheese and fresh, wild huckleberries. (Fruit desserts, $7.50.) Water Grill, 544 S. Grand St., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900.

* L'Arancino: Watermelon gelatin, an ancient dessert concept refashioned at Celestino Drago's newest restaurant, is made with fresh watermelon juice and topped with whipped cream and shaved chocolate. Fig lovers can choose a honey-glazed fig tart, a fig granita or the classic appetizer of fresh figs with prosciutto. And don't miss a sorbet made from those wild strawberries. (Fruit desserts, $6.) L'Arancino, 8908 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 858-5777.

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